09 December 2014

Fukui Prefectural Seaside Nature Center (福井県海浜自然センター)

rescued seahorse


Part 4 of the series: Satoyama Concept in Fukui

The Fukui Prefectural Seaside Nature Center can be found on the shores of Wakasa Bay.  Upstairs there is a museum about the region, while the downstairs has many interactive experiences for children.  There is a tall aquarium in the entryway with slots where guests can pet the sea life swimming inside.  Just left of the entryway is an aquatic petting zoo for children featuring sea slugs, star fish, and a variety of other sea animals.  A craft area has been set up where visitors can make bookmarks and cards to remember their visit using dried seaweed and washi paper. 



The museum not only gives information about the Wakasa Bay habitat, but also about the society that grew up around it.  One of the more fascinating things that we learned was that in the days before trains and cars, fish caught in Wakasa Bay were carried by foot to markets in the capital city of Kyoto.  This 70+ kilometer journey was undertaken by both men and women over an estimated period of 1,200 years.   The network of routes from the coast of Fukui to Kyoto came to be known as the Old Mackerel Road (鯖街道 / Sabakaidō) because mackerel (saba) was the most revered fish.  You can learn more about the Old Mackerel Road in John Moore’s Journeys in Japan (NHK World, November 11, 2014).  The mackerel was carried in baskets weighing 15kg that were balanced by a rod over the shoulders.  They would be packed with about 20 kg of salted mackerel and leaving the city Obama at dusk would be carried in a series of relays, sometimes via Lake Biwa, eventually arriving at the market at Demachiyanagi around dawn.  The museum had a sample set of baskets for people to try.  My twelve-year old son managed to get the baskets off the ground with great difficulty.  It is hard to imagine carrying them for many kilometres.  These days the Old Mackerel Road is a popular route for hikers (See: Oku Japan). 
 
Old Mackerel Road display

The only drawback to Fukui Prefectural Seaside Nature Center for foreign tourists is the lack of English signage.  A young staff member gave our group guidance who could speak English well enough to engage with my children.  Even if you speak little or no Japanese, many of the exhibits can still be enjoyed.  There is no admission charge so it is a great place to stop if you are travelling with kids.
 
Seaweed and washi paper crafts

There is a small beach behind the museum which my kids enjoyed immensely.  The highlight of my daughter’s summer vacation was her discovery of a seahorse stranded on the sand.  When she picked it up, it wiggled and she returned it to the sea, delighted to have saved the life of this beautiful, tiny creature. 

The Fukui Prefectural Seaside Nature Center (福井県海浜自然センター)
Official Website: http://www.fcnc.jp/
919-1464 Fukui Prefecture, Mikatakaminaka District, Wakasa, Sekumi, 18−2
Tel. 0770-46-1101

Access: Google Maps
- 40 minutes drive from the Tsuruga Interchange of the Hokuriku Expressway.
- 50 minutes drive from the Kohamanishi Interchange of the Maizuru Wakasa Expressway.
- 12 minutes by taxi from JR Mikata station.

Opening Hours:
9:00 – 17:00 (doors locked to newcomers at 16:30)
9:00 – 18:00 (July 21 – August 31)
Closed Mondays except on national holidays
Closed the day after a national holiday


Mt. Baijō / 梅丈岳


Part 3 of the series: Satoyama Concept in Fukui

From the top of Mt. Baijō (梅丈岳), 395 meters about sea level, one has scenic views of Wakasa Bay to the north, and the lakes of Mikatagoko to the south and east.  To get to the summit from the parking lot, daring travellers can take an open chairlift (no belts!!).  Those with a fear of heights may prefer the comfort of the closed funicular. 



The views were truly spectacular.  One particularly impressive sight was a recent landslide near Hotel Suigekka (see top photo) which had destroyed an orchard that was tucked into a narrow valley.   There are many orchards in the Mikatagoko region which is famous for its plums. 

There is an eclectic assortment of things for tourists on the peak including small shrines, picnic tables, padlocks for making wishes (like that famous bridge in Paris), and a play area for children (including a giant beetle for the children to climb on!).  Although I found the mountaintop a bit cluttered, one really must see the views from Mt. Baijō in order to understand the unique geography of this region squeezed between the lakes and the sea.


Next: Fukui Prefectural Seaside Nature Center (福井県海浜自然センター)

La Shijimi Restaurant / ラ・しじみ

La Shijimi Restaurant

Part 2 of the series: Satoyama Concept in Fukui

The first stop of our Satoyama in Fukui tour was La Shijimi RestaurantShijimi is a type of clam (Corbiculidae) that is a popular ingredient in miso soup.   The Fukui region is famous for its production of shijimi, hence the name of this cooperative restaurant on the shores of Lake Kugushiko in the renowned Mikatagoko (Five Lakes of Mikata) region.  The restaurant opened in May 2008 and calls itself a “community café” (コミュニティ・カフェ)
 
Lake Kugushigo

The shijimi served in the restaurant is fished directly from the brackish waters of Lake Kugushigo by the cooperative members.  There is a wonderful photo of some of the ladies from the cooperative fishing shijimi in their profile on Fukui Dotcom (ふくいドットコム).  In addition to bringing together local people, the cooperative aims to teach visitors about Lake Kugushigo and environs.  Our hosts particularly mentioned their desire to be welcome and accommodating to a wide range of guests.
 
Shijimi researchers at work near the restaurant

We were served a set lunch menu featuring regional fare of the day including miso soup with shijimi, salads, snails, octopus, pickles and rice, served with green tea.  In addition to the seasonal lunch set, the menu features seafood curry, pizzas with local toppings, homemade cakes and herbal teas.  They will also make up bento boxes if you place your order the day before.  It’s really an ideal place to stop and learn more about the region. 

La Shijimi can be found near Sui Shrine in Kugushi:
ラ・しじみ  (Google Maps)
919-1123 福井県三方郡 美浜町久々子8-10-1
Tel. +81 770-32-2283


Next: Mt. Baijō / 梅丈岳



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